Portugal celebrates Christmas on 24th of December (Christmas Eve) and on 25th (bank holiday). One of the most interesting and vividly cultivated traditions in this country is the preparation of nativity scenes, (pt.: presépio). We can see tiny nativity scenes in Portuguese houses, and on the squares and streets of the cities there are quite big nativity scenes. As per tradition the space for Baby Jesus in presépio remains empty until midnight on Christmas Eve. Consoada (Christmas Eve dinner) is the most important meal during the whole Christmas season.
Christmas food
The king of Portuguese festive table is bacalhau de consoada (Christmas Eve codfish). The fish is prepared according to a special recipe and served with boiled potatoes, eggs and Galician cabbage leaves (couve galega), all covered with olive oil. The list of dishes is limited but sweets lovers will be in heaven, there ara a lot of Christmas desserts: rabanadas (special toasts fried with sugar and cinnamon), filhoses (flat donuts with an orange flavor), arroz doce (rice pudding with cinnamon) and round Bolo Rei – royal cake resembling a fruitcake.
Where to go during the holiday season
During the holiday season in Lisbon, the streets are decorated with numerous illuminations and there is a huge Christmas tree on the main square, Praça do Comércio. There is a Christmas market in Rossio Square, perfect to visit with the whole family or friends. The city is filled with the smell of roasted chestnuts, which can be bought on every corner. It is worth walking to the Praça da Figueira, visiting the over 190-year-old Confeitaria Nacional cafe and there trying Portuguese Christmas delicacies such as bolo rei (king cake), filhoses and rabanadas. In Eduardo VII Park there is Winter Wonderland: the largest Christmas market, with an ice rink, a Ferris wheel and many other attractions (entrance is free and the market is open every day until January 5). In my humble opinion, the two most beautifully decorated streets every year are Rua Augusta, leading from Rossio square to Praça do Comércio, and Rua Garrett and Rua do Carmo, located next to each other.
In the southern part of the country, Algarve, visit Vila Real de Santo António to see with your own eyes the largest Portuguese nativity scene constructed on 230 m2, with 20 tons of sand, 3,000 kg of cork and over 5,600 figurines.
Traditional Christmas nativity scenes
In Portugal, the tradition of nativity scenes (presépio) has a long history and is deeply rooted in the country’s culture. Nativity scenes are an important element of Christmas celebrations, both in public spaces and at home. The most famous Portuguese nativity scenes are often intricately crafted works of art that are not limited to the Holy Family. They often depict entire villages, scenes from everyday life and folk characters such as shepherds or fishermen, which reflects Portuguese traditions and way of life.
Where to see a unique nativity scene in Lisbon? Head to my favorite park, Jardim da Estrela, opposite it is the 18th century temple, Basílica da Estrela. Queen Mary I promised that if she became pregnant, she would build a church, and it was in this context that this monumental building, the first in the world dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, was built in 1779-1790. The nativity scene here was created between 1781 and 1785, consists of over 400 figurines and is enclosed in a large display case that protects it. It is about 5 meters wide, 4 meters high and about 3 meters deep.
When do the Portuguese decorate the Christmas tree?
In Poland, according to tradition, we decorate the Christmas tree on Christmas Eve. Currently, in many Polish homes the tree appears a week before Christmas or already on St. Nicholas Day, i.e. on December 6. In my family home, the Christmas tree is decorated on Christmas Eve or a few days before it. Artificial Christmas trees are more popular in Portuguese homes, so there are always few live ones for sale. The Portuguese buy real Christmas trees very early, at the end of November, and the tree is traditionally decorated on December 1st.
